A collection of ideas between textile and fashion design

#StudioFashionDesign #Master-Thesis

Fashion design is far more than just creating clothing. Fashion design is a reaction to society with a long tradition and many influences. On the one hand it is about how we get dressed, how we deal with clothes, and on the other in which environment and what situation we dress ourselves.

Martina Gilgen situates her master's thesis at the junction between textile and fashion design, working with materiality, silhouette and surface finish. Her concern is to bring these three cornerstones closer together and allow the various components to work together and to see how they are interrelated. The task is to develop patterns which work with different materials.

Inspired by fashion designers Issey Myiake, Thierry Mugler, Yojiro Kake, Mary Katrantzou and Henrik Vibskov, Martina Gilgen takes on unconventional materials, uses the patterns to create a hiding and protection and plays with a mysterious identity created by the headwear. Instead of supposedly becoming invisible, the wearers acquire a strong physical presence.

The project operates with technical textiles such as sailcloth, parachute silk, carpet tapestry or reflective textiles. In some cases, the materials have survived their predetermined operating time such as, for example, the parachute silk. Or, like the carpet, they were forgotten in some corner. Why are they not used anymore? What is the available material's potential? Martina Gilgen gives the materials a new life by means of material refinement, such as coatings, impregnations, embossing, washings or eye-catching prints, embroidery applications or cut-outs, which can influence the optical effect. The material reacts differently and thus shapes and changes the silhouette. The pattern limits the material in its surface, and the materiality again influences the silhouette that is constructed.

Through its changeability and its reactivity the garment becomes a companion in various situations. A special feature is formed on the functional level, which is strengthened on a visual level in form and color. The print invigorates the large surfaces and makes them softer and more fluid. With the print the folds and seams disappear. With the introduction of color through painting, Martina Gilgen intuitively manages a harmonious but also animated effect. She works on fabrics and creates mysterious silhouettes, which play with and against each other and recalibrate their surroundings in an unexpected way.


Prof. Priska Morger

, Studio Fashion Design

Prof. Heinz Wagner

, ​Studio Integrative Design

Katrin Kruse

, Studio Fashion Design